North by Northwest

As you no doubt surmised by now, we decided to continue on the Camino Frances into Santiago and then we head north to Ferrol and will hike the Camino Ingles back into Santiago. We are trying to take alternate routes and/or detours whenever possible to make it a little different than before. One such choice was to go out and around Melide, the town famous for its octopus, pulpo Gallega "sprinkled" with paprika. Jerry swears his mouth still has not recovered from last time and he didn't want to come anywhere near it.  I think he said something like..been there, done that. Then again it might have been something stronger...    

A very unusual woven basket
sitting in front of the church.

A Room with a View

 The view from our room.

Today, we stayed in an albergue called the Mirador overlooking a lake created by a dam which created a new resort/recreation area. Unfortunately, the water level was too high this time to see the old Roman road and part of the old town. The towns people dismantled the old church stone by stone and rebuilt it into a fortress church on the hill where the town was to be relocate. It was both a place of worship and defense with four towers and battlements.

Up the Down Staircase

What goes up must come down!

We have left Sarria which is the point where tour groups join the Camino. In order to fulfill the criteria of a bona-fide pilgrim, you are required to walk the 100km from here to Santiago and get two sillos (stamps) each day in your credencial in order to obtain the Compostela (certificate). So of course the tour groups pour out onto the Camino, walk to the nearest café, get a stamp and board a bus for their hotel.  It makes the first part of the day crowded but by mid-morning things return to normal. There are many true hikers who are joining here because of time constraints or have joined up from other Caminos so it is just naturally more crowded. Yes Jerry the Camino goes up the stairs .



Stone

 In this particular area, we can see the ancient quarries that provided the limestone used in the building of  the Santiago Cathedral. Medieval pilgrims would carry as much of the stone as they were able approximately 75km. to the lime kilns. All along the way you see stacks of stones being left to symbolize the burden they carried. The ancient Roman roads have been deconstructed and the large flat stones used to provide a path up and out of the water.  

An enterprising person as all of this
had to be brought in on foot. 

The Scottish Tale

The deep rooted Celtic presence in Galicia is apparent in so many ways.  This particular area would be called pastoral with its green lush fields with grazing cows and sheep. There is a distinct fragrance that accompanies us all along the way not to mention the evidence that is left all over the trail.  We are convinced they herd them up and down the trail several times a day to make sure everything stays fresh!   All of a sudden we thought we heard music accompanying the new dance steps we were using to avoid wearing the evidence. Then we were certain there was not only music but bagpipe music out here in the middle of nowhere. He really was excellent performing everything from Amazing Grace to the theme from Brave Heart.  Then not a mile down the trail, we came upon a gentleman hiking wearing a kilt so it really was a Scottish day.

Picnic

note the fancy linens

With all the deserted villages along this stretch of the Camino, we had to be sure to bring our own picnic supplies. It used to be impossible to find peanut butter in Spain, so we grabbed this the minute we saw it in Leon and have been rationing it carefully. Anyone trying to sneak an extra portion has to forfeit their share the next day. Not just any old peanut butter either... white chocolate... and you thought we were roughing it!

Jerry found the perfect hideaway for short
nap.

Monks

 Interior garden at the Monastery

Jerry decided that the Monks might be his best chance to plead his case.